Atlantic “Salmons” are rumoured to run thick in the Northern reaches of Russia. But unless you’re a millionaire oil tycoon, you’d better be ready to duck little blue pills, Kalishnikovs and rappel waterfalls in covert pursuit.

Words Dylan Tomine

“‘You can rappel, right?’ Gordon’s static-filled voice blares from the camp radio in broken snippets. Between his Scottish burr and electronic interference, I must not be hearing him correctly.
‘What’s that?’ I shout into the receiver.

‘Rappel… like rock climbing…’ Static. ‘…not a bad hike, but there is one vertical face… you’ll have to rope up for… doable, though.’

‘Have you done it?’ I ask.

‘What?… no, no… but I see it all the time from the helicopter.’

Oh, that’s perfect.”

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above Hello? It’s your prom date calling from 1984… she wants her dress back.

Photo: Dylan Tomine.Arctika Hotel, Murmansk